Counter Culture Archives - Seattle magazine https://seattlemag.com/column/counter-culture/ Smart. Savvy. Essential. Tue, 19 Aug 2025 16:54:19 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Counter Culture: Emerald City Fish & Chips https://seattlemag.com/food-drink/counter-culture-emerald-city-fish-chips/ Tue, 19 Aug 2025 16:45:23 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000101858 On the outskirts of Columbia City, Emerald City Fish & Chips is frying like it means it. I judge every restaurant’s fish and chips by the quality of the cod and the tartar sauce. The Alaskan cod arrives in a Southern-style jacket that crackles at first bite before giving way to moist, flaky glory—glory that’s…

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On the outskirts of Columbia City, Emerald City Fish & Chips is frying like it means it.

I judge every restaurant’s fish and chips by the quality of the cod and the tartar sauce. The Alaskan cod arrives in a Southern-style jacket that crackles at first bite before giving way to moist, flaky glory—glory that’s fried and seasoned.

Now, tartar sauce is where I usually draw the line. I’m a classic, white-and-dill purist. Most “creative” versions taste like disappointment. But Emerald City Fish & Chips, which Stevie Allen opened in 2009 using his grandmother’s Southern recipes with a Northwest twist, sneaks in just the right amount of spicy heat to improve on tradition. I’ve had to reconsider many of my long-held food beliefs after becoming a fan of this spicy tartar sauce.

And yet the headliner here isn’t the fish—it’s the seafood gumbo. It’s house-made, bayou-style, brimming with shrimp, a deep roux, and andouille, ladled over just-barely-al-dente rice that holds its nerve in the bowl. It’s only available Sunday through Tuesday and sells out—so go early. This is the kind of bowl that makes a drive down Rainier Avenue feel like a pilgrimage.

A man wearing glasses and a gray t-shirt sits at an outdoor table, smiling while enjoying fish and chips from Emerald City Fish and Chips, savoring each bite with a dollop of spicy tartar sauce.

A white bowl filled with seafood gumbo containing shrimp, vegetables, and a brown broth sits ready to enjoy in Columbia City, accompanied by a white plastic spoon.
The seafood gumbo loaded with shrimp and andouille is everything you want in a Sunday-to-Tuesday tradition.
Photo courtesy of Emerald City Fish & Chips

Go for the cod, convert over the tartar sauce, and stay loyal for that gumbo. Emerald City Fish & Chips isn’t just doing fried fish. It’s running a small, well-seasoned rebellion.

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Counter Culture: Brileys BBQ https://seattlemag.com/food-drink/counter-culture-brileys-bbq/ Wed, 06 Aug 2025 19:17:01 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000101430 Seattle might not be the first city you think of when it comes to barbecue — but head north to Brileys BBQ and you’ll see why that narrative is changing, one rack at a time. I’m calling it now: these are the best ribs in town. Tender, smoky, and perfectly caramelized, the ribs scream Southern…

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Seattle might not be the first city you think of when it comes to barbecue — but head north to Brileys BBQ and you’ll see why that narrative is changing, one rack at a time. I’m calling it now: these are the best ribs in town.

Tender, smoky, and perfectly caramelized, the ribs scream Southern goodness, complete with a beautiful smoke ring that comes from many hours of preparation. No sauce is needed, but the housemade mild sauce is so good it borders on addictive. (Don’t let “mild” dissuade you — it’s packed with flavor.)

Two racks of glazed BBQ ribs from Brileys BBQ rest on a tray with sweet potato fries and baked beans, all served atop checkered paper—a true taste of Counter Culture.A man with glasses enjoys BBQ ribs at a restaurant, savoring Brileys BBQ sauce with a plate of food, a drink, and bottled sauce on the table in front of him.

But wait — don’t sleep on the sides. I have two personal favorites: the Brunswick stew and the cornbread. The stew is rich, hearty, and packed with smoky meat and vegetables that will make you wake up in the middle of the night craving it. As for the cornbread, there seems to be two camps: sweet and cakey versus savory and dry. I’m definitely in the first camp, and this cornbread is everything I want. A piece of advice: dip it in the mild sauce. You’ll thank me later.

A bowl of barbecue burnt ends from Brileys BBQ sits next to a stack of cornbread squares on a plate, with sauce bottles in the background—a delicious nod to authentic BBQ and counter culture dining.
Brunwick stew and cornbread.
Photo courtesy of Brileys BBQ

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Counter Culture: Burien Fish House https://seattlemag.com/food-drink/counter-culture-burien-fish-house/ Tue, 13 May 2025 19:00:11 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000094703 Nestled in a small strip mall in an industrial corner of Burien, the Burien Fish House may not look like much from the outside, but don’t let its unassuming location fool you. This restaurant serves all the classic fish house fare — fish and chips, clam chowder, calamari, and one of the best places in…

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Nestled in a small strip mall in an industrial corner of Burien, the Burien Fish House may not look like much from the outside, but don’t let its unassuming location fool you. This restaurant serves all the classic fish house fare — fish and chips, clam chowder, calamari, and one of the best places in Seattle to get fish tacos.

Exterior of Counter Culture: Burien Fish House with neon signs glowing in the windows, a red and white awning overhead, and a white car parked in front.
Nestled in a small strip mall in Burien
Photo courtesy of Burien Fish House
A bread bowl filled with creamy soup, topped with chopped green onions, sits on a tray lined with parchment paper at Counter Culture: Burien Fish House.
Clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl.
Photo courtesy of Burien Fish House
A takeout container from Counter Culture: Burien Fish House features crispy fried fish fillets, golden French fries, creamy coleslaw, and a lobster roll on a split-top bun.
Cod fish and chips with a lobster roll
Photo courtesy of Burien Fish House

 

You can customize your taco with a variety of fish options, including salmon, halibut, cod, and shrimp. Whether you prefer your fish grilled, fried, or blackened, the Burien Fish House offers it all, and the quality is exceptional. It’s easy to gauge how good a fish taco will be by testing out the grilled fish first, and this place nails it.

My absolute go-to is the blackened cod tacos.

Two grilled chicken tacos with diced tomatoes, shredded lettuce, and creamy sauce, served on a metal taco holder with a slice of lime—just one of the fresh flavors you’ll find at Counter Culture: Burien Fish House.
Blackened cod tacos
Photo courtesy of Burien Fish House

This humble place is a little hole-in-the-wall spot that should be on the top of your list anytime you think “you know what sounds good, fish tacos.” But again, you can’t go wrong with anything here.

So, the next time you’re in the mood, skip the touristy spots and head straight to Burien Fish House. You will not regret it.

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Counter Culture: Time Out Greek & American Restaurant https://seattlemag.com/food-drink/counter-culture-time-out-greek-american-restaurant/ Tue, 22 Apr 2025 19:00:52 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000093250 Time Out Greek & American Restaurant, a hidden gem in Mountlake Terrace, has been serving up delicious comfort food since 2004. Founded by Emmanuel and Georgia Flemetakis, this family-owned restaurant is now run by the next generation of the Flemetakis family. The menu is packed with classic Greek comfort food, offering everything from gyros and…

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Time Out Greek & American Restaurant, a hidden gem in Mountlake Terrace, has been serving up delicious comfort food since 2004. Founded by Emmanuel and Georgia Flemetakis, this family-owned restaurant is now run by the next generation of the Flemetakis family.

The menu is packed with classic Greek comfort food, offering everything from gyros and souvlaki to falafel and hummus. The flavors are authentic — I can never decide which item I’m going to get. The Greek sample plate, however, is a perfect choice. It offers a little of everything, so it’s guaranteed to satisfy your cravings while avoiding any regret. Other popular options include moussaka, kabobs, and burgers galore as well. In fact, it was previously known as Time Out Burger.

Two plates of comfort food: one featuring a Time Out Burger loaded with bacon, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles; the other showcasing a gyro with fries and a side salad in the background.

A plate of comfort food featuring grilled lamb chops, rice, pita bread, Greek salad with feta, a lemon wedge, and a side of white sauce, served on a white oval platter against a black background.
Paidakia (lamb chops) at Time Out.

Time Out has all the charm of a mom-and-pop operation. It’s the kind of hidden gem that locals adore — nestled just behind Regal Cinebarre Mountlake theater off Exit 177 on I-5. The restaurant embodies the spirit of a classic diner, offering all-day breakfast and indulgent milkshakes in addition to its Greek specialties.

Outdoor seating area with several tables and chairs in front of the Time Out Greek & American Restaurant, perfect for enjoying comfort food like a classic Time Out Burger on a partly cloudy day.A modern restaurant interior with empty tables and chairs, a long bar with high stools, shelves of bottles, and large windows letting in natural light—perfect for enjoying comfort food like the Time Out Burger.

This cozy spot may be tucked away, but it’s more than worth the drive. Whether you’re in the mood for a hearty gyro, a creamy milkshake, or a comforting plate of moussaka, Time Out Greek & American Restaurant delivers every time. It’s a must-visit for anyone who wants a hearty meal in a relaxed, unpretentious setting.

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