Just as we began to have our doubts, the heat comes on strong; a flush of tomatoes hit the vine, and things start to feel like summer just as autumn creeps around the corner. Nothing is predictable.

I am aware—and often guilty—of the tendency to hunker down with sameness when the world feels unstable, when venturing out to try new dishes and wrap my mind around novel textures and flavors feels more overwhelming than comforting.

But with bowl or plate before me, I can start to let go. A late flush of tomatoes that leads to summer salads in early fall becomes an unexpected abundance. A limited run of lamb inspires unlimited creativity. Getting your hands dirty over a plate of Balinese pork ribs? A low impact adventure.  Chefs need to control the food, but we do not. Diners can let go, and should.

Point to the sign at Mike’s Noodle House

Point to the sign and say, “I’ll take that one,” and you won’t be sorry.

For years, Mike’s Noodle House in Seattle Chinatown-International District has been the place doling out the city’s best wonton noodles. But to really enjoy what Mike’s does best, you have to trust fall and go with the understated red sign promoting the handmade fish balls. The combination of bouncy fish balls and briny shrimp wonton noodles makes this simple bowl the only one worth traveling for if you’re not going straight to Hong Kong.

Last of the lamb at Off Alley

There are many dishes to recommend at Off Alley, but one can never guarantee when you’ll see them again. That’s part of the appeal. If you see lamb-anything on the menu, you may be getting the last—or first—bit of the only two lambs from Oak Knoll Farm in San Juan Island. Chef Evan Leichtling sources whole animals from small farms and finds creative uses for each part (braised lamb neck or kidneys? For sure).

Here in Columbia City, his lamb tartare is seasoned with salt-packed Monterey Bay anchovies, which Leichtling and his team worked tirelessly to source. Every piece of the menu reflects their efforts to source however much or little is available. The quantity is never guaranteed, but the thrill of Off Alley is that whatever part you’re getting is there now, before you and just for you. The only thing we know for sure is that the menu will change tomorrow.

Shake it up at Shake Shack

I’ve gotten on my soapbox before about trend-driven foods, and yet, when Shake Shack debuted its viral Dubai chocolate pistachio shake with its chocolate shell-coated cup, pistachio custard, pistachio crumble, and toasted kataifi, I fell hard. I told myself I wouldn’t seek it out at the first three major cities where it appeared. I certainly would <not wait in line for a milkshake.

The Dubai Shake made its national debut in late June. After resisting for months, I finally caved on a hot summer road trip—as good an excuse as any. That’s when I learned that barely a month after its debut, many stores were already at risk of selling out. So here I am, outing myself so you don’t miss out. Trendy or not, this is a solid milkshake, and I will miss it when it’s gone. Get it before it disappears.

Stick to the ribs at Nue

In the decade since Nue opened its doors on Capitol Hill, the restaurant has made headlines for its unique range of international dishes: South African bunny chow, the Chengdu spicy chicken wing tower, even Vietnamese water beetles. The Balinese pork ribs, though a bestseller, haven’t had as much airtime as the other headliners, says owner Chris Cvetkovich.

In Bali, warungs known for their ribs draw lines that stretch around the block. That inspired Nue’s version: marinated, slow roasted, and finished on the grill with a sticky kecap manis glaze. The total process takes roughly 72 hours from start to finish.

Shank and pickle at Buckshot Honey

I can’t help it. If I go for barbecue, I order brisket. Because of this, I’ll likely miss out on the new special at Buckshot Honey: the “shank and pickle.” Pork shank, that is. Beef prices are reaching an all-time high, notes owner-pitmaster David Storm, so while the beef will always be there, and be good, there’s no better time to explore the creative ways chefs are utilizing pork.

Storm smokes local pork shank over applewood, braises it in a red adobo sauce, and serves it with miso mayo, chili crack (the house-made chili crisp), cilantro, and a pickle relish in a banh mi bun. You can find shank and pickle at Buckshot’s Snoqualmie and Cashmere locations.

Tiffany Ran is a writer and the chef behind Babalio Taiwanese Pop-Up, a Taiwanese food pop-up, and the food editor of TaiwaneseAmerica.org. Much of her food exploration includes jumping between catering, restaurants, and the pop-up world. Her writing has been featured in Vice Munchies, Lucky Peach, Goldthread, JoySauce, Northwest Asian Weekly, and more.