Natalie Compagno and Greg Freitas, Author at Seattle magazine Smart. Savvy. Essential. Mon, 27 Oct 2025 06:01:58 +0000 en-US hourly 1 In the Mood for Missoula https://seattlemag.com/travel/in-the-mood-for-missoula/ Tue, 28 Oct 2025 11:00:06 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000103317 Missoula is that rare mountain town where river surfers, indie filmmakers, ranch kids, and chefs all pack into the same bar—and somehow, it works. It’s wild, weird, and wonderful in equal measure, with enough soul and scenery to make you question why anyone would ever leave. As with most small towns, the best way to…

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Missoula is that rare mountain town where river surfers, indie filmmakers, ranch kids, and chefs all pack into the same bar—and somehow, it works. It’s wild, weird, and wonderful in equal measure, with enough soul and scenery to make you question why anyone would ever leave.

As with most small towns, the best way to experience it is through a local’s eye, so we asked someone who knows Missoula like an insider for her coveted advice. A part-time Zootown resident who studied at the University of Montana (located less than a mile from downtown), Kathryn Courtney, president and CEO of Mix Consulting, splits her days between Seattle and Missoula. Even with the half-and-half arrangement, she doesn’t just visit—she operates at a local’s clip.

“One of my favorite places right now is Posh Chocolat café in Bonner, just outside town,” Courtney says. “It’s tucked inside a restored mill house, and everything is made fresh on site—soups, pastries, chocolates, even lunch. It’s elegant but not pretentious, and they’ll make you a proper coffee too.”

A cocktail in a coupe glass with limes and cinnamon sticks beside it, next to a hand holding a large, grilled tomahawk steak—a taste of small towns and big flavors you might find on your travels through Montana.
The city’s small but mighty food scene includes gems like 1889 Steakhouse, which serves up impressive fare, like tomahawk cuts and craft cocktails.
Photos by Lorissa Dauenhauer

When it comes to fine dining, Courtney points to Boxcar Bistro, located in Missoula’s Old Sawmill District. “It leans French and is shockingly good,” she says. “Curated wines, a gorgeous space, and the kind of dishes that make you question where you are.”

For steak splurges—this is Montana, after all—Courtney doesn’t hold back: “For a killer and very bougie steak that rivals anything Michelin-starred, go to 1889,” she advises. “But if you want the real insider move, drive 20 minutes to Lolo and check out the Lolo Creek Steak House. Inside an old log cabin, it’s the real deal. The Stables is the newest super-nice restaurant in town, and everybody’s nuts about it.”

Missoula is nothing if not balanced. When you’re ready to trade steak knives for neon signs, Courtney’s list of post-dinner options features places with music, drinks, and down-to-earth throwback vibes: “Al’s & Vic’s, Charlie B’s, the Oxford, and the Sunrise—those are the real-deal dive bars,” she says. “And the Sunrise is where you go for dancing, no question.”

If you find yourself out boot scooting until the late hours, a cup of strong coffee is a must the next morning. Courtney’s caffeine solution is two-part: “Black Coffee Roasting Company is the go-to these days—it’s stylish and serious about the beans. But Break Espresso is the heart of the town. You’ll find half of Missoula camped out inside, working, reading, talking. The pie is excellent, the brick interior is cozy, and you always run into someone you know.”

A collage showcasing Montana tourism: two people overlooking a city, two fly-fishing in a river, and a cyclist on a bridge beneath a rainbow—capturing the charm of Montana’s small towns and scenic beauty.
Missoula is every nature lover’s dream, where outdoor activities—hiking, water-sports, biking—abound.
Photos courtesy of Destination Missoula

Weekends often revolve around the four overlapping Saturday markets downtown, all within strolling distance. “You could spend hours wandering between them,” Courtney says, noting that her post-market go-to is Worden’s, Missoula’s first grocery store. Here, you can pick up “exceptional sandwiches, imported treats, and wine,” while checking off the remainder of your shopping list. Next door to Worden’s is another Missoula classic. “The Old Post is timeless,” Courtney says, admitting that she recently stopped by twice in one day. “We used to hang out there years ago, and honestly, it’s only gotten better. Their menu is thoughtful, the drinks are handcrafted, and sometimes there’s live music that doesn’t ruin your conversation.”

While everyone is familiar with hiking Mount Sentinel, a local landmark since 1908, when students from the University of Montana painted a large “M” on its western face, Courtney recommends a scenic detour to Salmon Lake, about 40 minutes from town. “The water’s crystal clear, the vibe is relaxed, and it’s small enough to feel like you’ve got it to yourself,” she says. “We even spotted Pink out there during her concert stop. You never know who’ll be floating by.”

And before heading home? “Don’t miss the Montana Antique Mall. Three or four floors of curated chaos—elegant cocktail glasses, weird vintage dolls, first-edition books. I always find something.”

Ready to Head East? Here’s Where to Stay in Missoula

The Wren

Open since 2022, The Wren has quickly claimed “favorite” status among downtown visitors. Its rooms mix Montana minimalism with clever design touches (striped Pendleton blankets, ice buckets shaped like classic Styrofoam coolers), and the lobby doubles as a relaxed living room where locals and travelers regularly cross paths. Best of all, it’s less than five minutes to the Clark Fork River, the Saturday markets, and just about everything else you came for.

Residence Inn Missoula Downtown

Don’t let the name fool you: Residence Inn Missoula Downtown is no standard hospitality-chain stay. Built inside the beautifully restored Missoula Mercantile building, it’s where Western heritage meets modern polish. Ask for the Mercantile Suite—it’s got a lofted layout, soaring arched windows, and enough vintage character to feel like a scene from a film. Bonus: the indoor pool is a godsend after a sun-soaked hike or a long evening of cocktails.

The Gibson Mansion B&B

For a sleepover with storybook charm, try this 1903 Victorian nestled in a quiet neighborhood. Antique-filled rooms, a legendary scone service, and a garden that begs for a late-morning coffee make The Gibson Mansion B&B feel like a hidden chapter from a gentler time.

LOGE Missoula

A newcomer on the hospitality scene, LOGE caters to those looking to spend time outside of their hotel room. Inspired by the surf, climbing, and camping culture of the 1970s, this streamlined stop sits in the heart of Missoula, with “gear walls” in every room, so no matter your activity of choice, there’s room to hang its accoutrements. Didn’t bring your own? LOGE has got you, with bikes, snowshoes, paddleboards, and more available for daily checkout.

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Desert Daydreams in Santa Fe https://seattlemag.com/travel/desert-daydreams-in-santa-fe/ Tue, 21 Oct 2025 19:00:25 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000103309 Time doesn’t move in a straight line in Santa Fe. It’s more of a palette—one that the city draws from boldly. New Mexico’s quirky capital, nicknamed the City Different, offers visitors an experience that draws from multiple eras. Centuries pile on top of each other, enhancing, rarely erasing. The ancient Pueblo tribes and the frontier…

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Time doesn’t move in a straight line in Santa Fe. It’s more of a palette—one that the city draws from boldly. New Mexico’s quirky capital, nicknamed the City Different, offers visitors an experience that draws from multiple eras. Centuries pile on top of each other, enhancing, rarely erasing. The ancient Pueblo tribes and the frontier West coexist with immersive art installations, Apache skateboards, and smash burger pop-ups.

A walk through the city’s two-hundred-year-old central Plaza isn’t a march through history—it’s a prism. Light bends through centuries at every turn. The adobe churches are not replicas, the Indigenous art is not revivalist, and the Spanish plazas are not stage sets. The city is a living canvas, its surface textured with memory and invention alike. It resists nostalgia even as it honors lineage.

A woman dressed in traditional clothing with Day of the Dead face paint stands in front of an altar decorated with flowers and offerings, celebrating in the heart of Santa Fe, the vibrant City Different.
Throughout Santa Fe, Día de los Muertos is a popular holiday.
Photo courtesy of Tourism Santa Fe

Adobe dreams and desert reinventions

This same interplay of eras runs through Santa Fe’s hotels. The Plaza’s iconic La Fonda is pure Southwestern romance—painted headboards, kiva fireplaces, the comforting hush of thick adobe walls. Just around the corner, Hotel Chimayó invites guests into New Mexico’s Spanish-Hispanic traditions, with its saints, and its hot rod bar Low ‘N Slow. Here, the mood is calm, and the décor is as immaculate as the crosses that line the walls. The friendly bartenders are part mixologists, part guides—eager to share stories and insights into the city’s booming beverage scene.

A few miles south of the Plaza, El Rey Court offers a spatial and sensorial pivot in Santa Fe’s creative tapestry—less an homage to history than an act of reinvention. This 1930s motor court, rejuvenated as desert-chic hospitality, is anchored by its mezcal and tequila bar, La Reina. It’s bright and airy with outdoor seating and a cozy lounge, and it doubles as a sanctuary for locals and the new creative class alike.

Evenings at La Reina pulse with energy. As twilight settles, the front‑patio crowd—artists, musicians, designers—gathers for what feels like a weekly salon. In a span of just two nights, we experienced Locals Night, a taco truck, a jewelry bazaar, live music, and the wildly popular One Trick Pony smash burger pop‑up—woman‑owned, grass‑fed, regenerative local beef, delivered with a side of community.

Time portals, turquoise, and the avant-garde

Nearby, small shops like Tru Treasures offer the state stone, turquoise, of course, to fashionistas of all stripes. On Baca Street, the Reflective Jewelry boutique retools traditional silversmithing with Fair Trade politics and sculptural minimalism. Under its glass display cases, discover one-of-a-kind silver necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, produced through contemporary ethical metalsmithing that ensures you can feel good knowing the origins of your purchase.

And at Meow Wolf’s House of Eternal Return, time unspools entirely. The immersive, 20,000-square-foot installation operates on surreal logic: a mystical, modern haunted-house-meets-art- project experience that opens into parallel dimensions, neon forests, subterranean ice caves, and chambers with dreamy soundscapes. It’s whimsical, yes—but beneath the spectacle is something more profound: the tale of familial unraveling through space and time, haunted by memory and touched by otherworldly forces.

At the IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts, Douglas Miles: Always & Forever (open through February 8, 2026) recalibrates history and motion through the mythic language of ancient tribes. Drawing on his heritage, Miles, who founded Apache Skateboards in 2002, elevates skate decks into moving canvases—each emblazoned with Apache warriors—to, according to the exhibition program, “reassert the sovereignty of motion and Native American cultures as dynamic and contemporary.”

A man stands in front of a wall of decorated suitcases, each featuring historical photos of Indigenous people from Pueblo tribes, reflecting the rich heritage found in the heart of Santa Fe, the City Different.
Boarding up. Douglas Miles, a painter, printmaker, and photographer from Arizona, is the founder of Apache Skateboards. Now on view at the IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts, the exhibition Douglas Miles:
Always & Forever features Miles’ 2022 installation You’re Skating on Native Land, comprising 30 skateboard decks.
Photo courtesy of Haiden Renae Gould

About 10 miles north, at the New Mexico History Museum, Zozobra: A Fire That Never Goes Out (on display through September 30, 2027) introduces one of Santa Fe’s enduring traditions. Zozobra—also known as Old Man Gloom—is a towering, 50-foot-tall, ghostlike puppet that’s burned each year in a cathartic ritual meant to cast off the collective burdens of the past. The exhibition traces the event’s evolution (it dates back more than 100 years), showcasing vintage posters, ceremonial costumes, and even the handwritten “glooms” that people still submit—notes of anxiety to be consumed by flame. The resemblance to Burning Man is no accident—Zozobra served as inspiration for the desert phenomenon.

At its historic 1917 Plaza location, the New Mexico Museum of Art has just unveiled Gustave Baumann: The Artist’s Environment (closing February 1, 2026), a sweeping retrospective that traces how one of Santa Fe’s defining artists drew on Puebloan and Hispanic traditions, whimsy, nature, and modernist aesthetics to shape his distinctly regional vision.

No exploration of Santa Fe’s artistic legacy is complete without a visit to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Just steps from the Plaza, the intimate space showcases iconic works alongside photographs, sketches, and personal artifacts that reveal O’Keeffe’s deep connection to the New Mexico landscape. It’s a quiet, reverent pause—one that reminds visitors how the desert can shape not just a style, but a life.

Spin the timeline

To feel Santa Fe at its most unhurried, explore the city by bike. Start at the Santa Fe Railyard District, where repurposed warehouses now boast galleries, breweries, and performance spaces. It’s where art walks mingle with farmers markets and local teens hang out at the skate park beside contemporary sculptures. And tucked just off the tracks is Routes Bicycle Tours, a welcoming launchpad for exploring on two wheels.

From here, a designated bike path leads you south along the Rail Trail, or you can take side streets north toward downtown. Either direction offers that perfect Santa Fe tempo: unrushed, open to discovery, and slightly sun-drowsy. Riders coast by historic buildings, artist studios, and cozy neighborhoods—past and present riding in tandem. There’s history under your tires, and a fresh perspective around each bend. In a place where time stretches and folds like a Georgia O’Keeffe flower, a bike might just be the best time machine.

Green chile roots and culinary revolutions

Santa Fe’s food scene mirrors its art: respectful of tradition, but always ready for reinvention.

On the city’s south side, close to El Rey Court, the Pantry has been slinging red chilli and huevos rancheros since 1948. It’s a diner at heart, beloved by generations; the kind of place where the coffee flows freely and nobody blinks when someone orders breakfast at 3 p.m. Just across Cerrillos Road, El Parasol began as a roadside stand in Española and still feels gloriously no-frills fried taco shells, green chile stew, and refried beans with melted cheese are best enjoyed immediately on the benches inside.

In the historic Plaza district, Horno, a buzzy gastropub, leads the newer wave of dining options. For a special treat, ask for the prize-winning green chile cheeseburger—it’s not on the menu. Just a stone’s throw away, Sazón takes a fine-dining approach to regional Mexican cuisine, with famous and artfully plated moles. Popular on Thursdays, Introduction to the Spirits of Mexico (reservation only) includes a flight of five (featuring tequila and mezcal), plus sangrita and mole.

A dining table set for four sits between two large portraits of Frida Kahlo—one realistic, one colorful—with antler decor and candles, capturing the vibrant spirit of the City Different, a unique southwestern city influenced by Pueblo tribes.
Just two blocks off the central Plaza, Sazón takes a fine-dining approach to regional Mexican cuisine.
Photo courtesy of Sazón

If you’re looking for a throwback, tradition runs deep downtown. Tia Sophia’s, inventor of the breakfast burrito, still has lines down the block most mornings. Across from the cathedral, Palacio Café continues to impress with its tuna melts and green chile enchiladas. Try Chocolate Maven for blue corn pancakes topped with a fried egg—best enjoyed while watching pastries come to life in the open bakery. And finally: Coyote Café. When it opened in 1987, it helped define what modern Southwestern cuisine could be: bold, beautiful, theatrical. These days, the Coyote Cantina, upstairs from the original, brings things full circle—serving tacos, margaritas, and grilled street corn with a side of neon-pink sunsets.

Santa Fe’s aesthetic isn’t a passing trend, but a lasting sensibility—a shared dialect of place, memory, and the ever-present creative pulse in the arid landscape. Unique objects, moments, and people speak the same language: of place, memory, and the creative pulse that never leaves the desert.

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Dispatches from Greenland, Part Two: Nuuk https://seattlemag.com/travel/dispatches-from-greenland-part-two-nuuk/ Wed, 15 Oct 2025 19:00:34 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000104541 Greenland is too vast to take in all at once. Yet a few days in Nuuk—the island’s compact, curious capital, just a four-hour flight from Newark—offer a surprisingly complete portrait. Nuuk changes like the weather that shapes it: by turns wild and polished; intimate and bold. To Northerners, it feels as hectic as Manhattan; to…

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Greenland is too vast to take in all at once. Yet a few days in Nuuk—the island’s compact, curious capital, just a four-hour flight from Newark—offer a surprisingly complete portrait. Nuuk changes like the weather that shapes it: by turns wild and polished; intimate and bold. To Northerners, it feels as hectic as Manhattan; to diplomats, a confident Arctic capital; to travelers, a first glimpse of the North. But its true power lies in the subtleties—the quiet ways it invites visitors into Greenlandic life.

For travelers on the HX Expedition MS Fridtjof Nansen, this is where the story deepens. After disembarking, we arrived in Nuuk with a short list of names—locals whose insight would help us see the city from the inside out.

One of them was Sidsel Iversen, who moved from Denmark to Kangilinnguit (formerly Grønnedal) at the age of three. Today she resides in Nuuk, guiding visitors through its shifting layers. While filled with shops, restaurants, and hotels, Nuuk is still surrounded by nature. Iversen recommends beginning on the water, where whale safaris and fishing trips with Raw Arctic frame the city against endless sky. Nuuk is a hiking mecca, and for Iversen, the pull is always upward. The climb up Lille Malene is a rite of passage for anyone who wants to be called a Nuummioq, while Store Malene rises higher still, its ridgeline cutting nearly 2,500 feet into the clouds. Winter rewrites the script with northern lights and the ski slopes of Sisorarfiit, where the runs descend almost to the shoreline.

A coastal town with snow-covered buildings and landscape under a dramatic, cloudy sky with warm sunlight on the horizon.
Sunset over Nuuk in winter.
Photo by Aningaaq R Carlsen / Visit Greenland
Two people paddleboarding on calm, icy blue water surrounded by floating icebergs with mountains visible in the distance under a partly cloudy sky.
People stand up paddling with Nuuk Adventure in the Nuuk fjord.
Photo by Aningaaq R Carlsen / Visit Greenland

Back at sea level, ride the local bus that winds through neighborhoods like a moving portrait of daily life—something guidebook writer Sabine Barth recommends as one of the most revealing introductions to Nuuk. Barth also recommends climbing the steps of the Colonial Harbour to get in touch with Nuuk’s rich history. Colonial Harbour is Nuuk’s oldest district, where its seafaring past meets modern Greenland’s future.

That tension between old necessity and new expression runs through the city. Nuuk has always been a place of makers. Out of musk ox hides once came warmth and survival; today, the same fibers are transformed at Qiviut into knitwear as soft as air. Streetwear designer Bibi Chemnitz reimagines Greenlandic motifs for the present, while Katuaq, the cultural center, hums with energy from exhibitions, film, and the café at its heart. 

Meals chart this same arc between tradition and modernity. Iversen recommends the tapas at Nivi—from musk ox and reindeer to the island’s bounteous seafood. Other top food options for visitors include Café Esmeralda, with its easy conviviality, and Hotel Hans Egede for its buffet of musk ox and reindeer. Barth also recommends the tasting menu at Sarfalik, a true feast of the Arctic. For warm, welcoming conviviality just steps from the harbor, the newer Hotel Aurora—opened by Iversen’s family in a reimagined industrial building—offers an intimate stay. Finish with a nightcap at Daddy’s, the pub where most evenings end in laughter.

As Iversen notes, the U.S.-focused tourism industry is as new for locals as it is for visitors. “We have to learn to get used to things,” she says. “This is an opportunity, not a burden.” Bea Husum Terkildsen, destinations manager at Visit Nuuk, concurs, viewing the capital as inseparable from the story of Greenland itself. Tourism, she explains, creates jobs, sustains traditions, and ties Nuuk more closely to the world. “Visitors from the U.S. bring valuable perspectives and connections,” she explains, “and by experiencing Greenland firsthand, they become part of our story at a time when our Arctic environment and communities are facing historic transitions.” 

A group of people, including several children, stand on a wooden dock in Nuuk, Greenland, looking down at the water, with buildings and a hill in the background.
Locals and tourists gather to take photos of traditional seal hunt on National Day.
Photo by Aningaaq R Carlsen / Visit Greenland
Snow-covered mountain peak viewed through an open window from inside an aircraft, with a clear blue sky and distant water in the background—an awe-inspiring glimpse of Greenland near Nuuk.
View over Nuuk fjord from the window of an Air Greenland helicopter.
Photo by Aningaaq R Carlsen / Visit Greenland

She urges visitors skyward—splurging on a helicopter ride circling Sermitsiaq, the mountain that guards the city like a watchtower. Like Barth, she loves climbing the wooden stairs above the Colonial Harbour to watch evening light stretch across the red-painted homes. “Walk up the stairs by the Colonial Harbour—the view is absolutely stunning, especially in the late summer evening light,” she says. 

At the edge of the city, Nuuk’s striking Malik swimming pool glows like an iceberg under glass—its curved roof and vast windows mirroring the surrounding fjord and mountains. Inside, the sound of splashing salt mingles with laughter as locals and visitors swim laps, soak in the warm pool, or simply watch snow fall beyond the glass. More than a feat of Nordic architecture, Malik is a communal heartbeat—a place where the city gathers year-round to move, breathe, and stay connected through the long Arctic seasons.

Boats are docked in a partially frozen body of water at night, with a modern, illuminated building and snow-covered landscape in the background.
The public pool Malik in Nuuk on a winter night.
Photo by Mads Pihl / Visit Greenland

A person dives off a springboard into an indoor swimming pool, with large windows and a snow-capped mountain visible in the background.

Three people are swimming in an indoor pool with large windows letting in sunlight. Two children wear orange floaties, and an adult is with them in the water.
Father and sons enjoying the day in the public indoor swimming pool Malik.
Photo by Rebecca Gustafsson / Visit Greenland

From there, the city unfolds in both directions: toward the sea, where history entered, and into the community, where it is being written anew. In Nuuk, whether you ride the bus, climb a mountain, or follow the harbor steps at dusk, you’re following the arc of a city whose story is still being forged.

Read Part One of our Greenland series for a journey through Ilulissat’s icebergs and fjords. 

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A Long Weekend in Singapore? https://seattlemag.com/travel/a-long-weekend-in-singapore/ Thu, 18 Sep 2025 11:00:06 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000103533 When Singapore Airlines recently added a new Friday nonstop option from Seattle to Singapore Changi Airport, we noticed the 16-hour-and-20-minute flight is the longest nonstop flight operating from Sea-Tac International Airport. And it made us wonder. In this court of frequent-flyer opinion, presided over by our self-appointed “travel tribunal,” the matter before us today is…

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When Singapore Airlines recently added a new Friday nonstop option from Seattle to Singapore Changi Airport, we noticed the 16-hour-and-20-minute flight is the longest nonstop flight operating from Sea-Tac International Airport. And it made us wonder.

In this court of frequent-flyer opinion, presided over by our self-appointed “travel tribunal,” the matter before us today is deceptively simple: Should a Seattle-based traveler—armed with a passport, a flexible schedule, and a willingness to chase chili crab halfway across the globe—board the plane for a long weekend?

If this sounds absurd, remember: Absurd is trending. As Slate recently noted, travelers are leaning into hyper-short getaways, inspired in part by creator Kevin Droniak, whose Instagram Reels of whirlwind trips (“Yes, Peru is a day trip from the USA!”) have gone viral. Call it the rise of the micro-vacation: people willing to cross oceans to explore as much as possible for insanely brief periods of time. So let us weigh the evidence.

Let the record show that both sides have compelling arguments.

Exhibit A: The Case For

First, there’s the flight itself. Singapore Airlines flies direct between SeaTac and Singapore, and it’s not just a seat on a plane—it’s a fully horizontal, Champagne-drenched exhale at 35,000 feet. Business class feels like a boutique hotel in the sky. Lie-flat beds, silk eye masks, and cabin crew who somehow sense your beverage needs before you’ve even thought of them. The Airbus A350 maintains a cabin pressure equivalent to 6,000 feet, barely higher than Denver. Deep sleep becomes attainable, and the added moisture improves skin, breathing, and mental clarity. For a restaurant-style experience you can Book the Cook, or not—the regular food is magnificent too. Whatever miles and upgrade points you have accumulated, this is precisely the reason to use them.

A business class airplane seat fully reclined into a flatbed position, with a pillow and blanket, next to windows and a control panel.
Lie-flat seats in Singapore Airlines’ business class make the 16-hour trip feel like a hotel in the sky.
Photo courtesy of Singapore Airlines

Then there’s Singapore itself: an entire country that seems to have been optimized for the long-weekend layover. It’s compact, English-speaking, obsessively efficient, and clean enough to inspire guilt in anyone who’s ever spilled something while walking around Pike Place Market.  It’s the ideal locale for sprinting from one memorable visit to another: Chinatown, Little India, Marina Bay Sands, and the shops of Orchard Road are all within 15 minutes of each other. Land  Saturday afternoon and start devouring Hainanese chicken rice before night falls. The humble hawker stalls in Singapore have won Michelin stars—the food is that good.

A large outdoor swimming pool with fountains, surrounded by palm trees, sun loungers, and a modern multi-story hotel building in the background.

A bright, spacious hotel room with two beds, armchairs by a large window, a chandelier, neutral decor, and a garden view.
Shangri-La Singapore’s Valley Wing is luxury and pampering strong enough to sway any jury.
Photo courtesy of Shangri-La Singapore Valley Wing

A variety of colorful Asian dishes including noodles, steamed buns, rice, vegetables, and desserts, served in ornate bowls and plates on a table.

Accommodations? There are places to rest and then there are places to revel in your own good taste. You’ll be staying in the Shangri-La Singapore’s Valley Wing, the brand’s flagship and still its crown jewel. The decadent happy hour features chef-made canapés and bottomless Negronis. Shang Palace delivers Peking duck and dim sum with the kind of quiet confidence that only comes from decades of excellence. And the hotel’s Origin Bar is a jet-lag antidote shaped like an espresso martini.

Exhibit B: The Case Against

But hold on. Before you trade your usual Bainbridge ferry jaunt for a 16-hour hop across the Pacific, let’s talk about jet lag. The time difference is 15 hours ahead of Seattle. If you leave early Friday and arrive late Saturday, will your body even realize it’s the weekend? Unless you’re a seasoned time zone gymnast, there’s a strong chance you’ll find yourself wide awake at 3 a.m. googling “Is melatonin legal in Singapore?”

Also: Singapore may be small, but it’s dense. It’s a city-state that packs a full country’s worth of sensory overload into a tiny island. Three days is enough to scratch the surface, but you’ll be haunted by everything you didn’t get to do. No time for the beaches of Sentosa? Missed the Peranakan Museum? Didn’t queue up for the Singapore sling at Raffles Hotel Singapore? The FOMO is real.

And let’s not pretend this is a casual getaway. You’re spending big to eat rice and chicken (yes, it’s transcendent, but still), fight your circadian rhythms, and turn your Monday status meeting into a Zoom-in-a-hotel-robe situation.

Closing Arguments

Is this trip sensible? Absolutely not. Is it gloriously indulgent, unreasonably rewarding, and filled with the kind of stories that begin with “When I was just in Singapore—over the weekend—I had the most amazing…”? Without a doubt.

The Verdict

For the energetic, points-rich, adventure-ready Seattleite, we find in favor of the trip. Life is short. That chili crab is not coming to you. Going to Singapore for three exhilarating days is far better than not going at all. Just nap aggressively on the blissful return flight, and tell your coworkers your Monday morning kopi came with a side of kaya toast.

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Woodinville’s Refined Escape: Wine, Relaxation, and the Perfect Score https://seattlemag.com/travel/woodinvilles-refined-escape-wine-relaxation-and-the-perfect-score/ Mon, 15 Sep 2025 19:00:06 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000103257 When Chateau Ste. Michelle opened in 1976, Woodinville was little more than sleepy farmland. Nearly fifty years later the scene has exploded, with more than a hundred tasting rooms scattered across strip malls. But pull into Willows Lodge in the Hollywood District and the mood calms down considerably. Vineyards edge bustling multi-use paths, and visitors…

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When Chateau Ste. Michelle opened in 1976, Woodinville was little more than sleepy farmland. Nearly fifty years later the scene has exploded, with more than a hundred tasting rooms scattered across strip malls. But pull into Willows Lodge in the Hollywood District and the mood calms down considerably. Vineyards edge bustling multi-use paths, and visitors perch at tasting patios shaded by old trees. It’s a corner of Woodinville that feels curated and low-key, where a lazy weekend can be filled entirely on foot or by bike.

Right now, Woodinville has a fresh claim to fame. In July, Tenor Wines made Washington State history when its 2022 La Reyna Blanca Vineyard Chardonnay earned a perfect 100-point score from wine critic Virginie Boone. The first dry white wine in Washington to achieve the distinction, it’s a win for Tenor and for the Royal Slope AVA, where grapes grow on a sun-drenched plateau overlooking the Columbia River. For Washington winemaking, it’s a watershed moment—proof the state’s wines belong on the same stage as the best of France and California.

At Avallé’s Winemaker Studio the ‘22 Reyna Blanca has—naturally—sold out, but you can taste the full range of their ambitious portfolio from Tenor, Jaine, and Matthews. Bryan Otis, owner of Avallé, is committed to showcasing the most elite grapes from the Columbia Valley and is confident enough to stack them against any wines in the world. It’s a subtle but important transition that mirrors California’s Judgment of Paris moment–when a wine region unmistakably takes its place alongside the world’s best.

Two men taste Woodinville wine beside barrels in a winery on the left; empty tables and chairs are arranged for relaxation in a bright tasting room on the right.

But Woodinville isn’t only about chasing trophies. Destination wineries like Sparkman Cellars and DeLille Cellars have turned the Old Redhook Brewery campus into a sleek gathering place. The locals rave about Long Shadows, for its wine and design. Around the Hollywood District, Novelty Hill–Januik is known for bold reds paired with modern architecture, Woodinville Whiskey Co. pours spicy rye in a handsome tasting room, and the Hollywood Tavern serves burgers and cocktails in a century-old roadhouse. Each experience spills into the next, making planning simple: spend the afternoon wandering, sipping, and snacking, knowing you’re never more than a few minutes from the next stop.

Two classics anchor the district. Just down the road, Chateau Ste. Michelle keeps its stately presence, with a rose garden picnic that lets guests spread out on lawn chairs among the blooms. The picnic arrives brimming with artisanal bites and a bottle of the winery’s signature wine—rosé, Chardonnay, or red—an experience that feels both timeless and freshly tailored for modern travelers. You could do these things on your own, but having them brought to you makes all the difference. Other elevated experiences include private cabanas, chef’s tables, and vertical tastings. 

The ease extends to where you lay your head after a languid day among the vines. Willows Lodge—sustainable, indulgent, but also rustic—has anchored Woodinville since 2000. From the moment the car is parked and luggage disappears into the lobby, the outside world recedes. The scent of cedar mingles with fresh-cut flowers. Hallways are hushed and carpeted, and each guest room is fitted with a gas fireplace and an oversized soaking tub that begs for a long, candlelit bath. Step outside, and the gardens spread out with winding paths, sculptures tucked into corners, and native plantings buzzing with bees.

A well-maintained garden with diverse flowering plants, shrubs, and raised beds in Woodinville, bordered by tall trees under a blue sky with scattered clouds—an inviting spot for relaxation.

A couple walks hand in hand along a garden path toward a fountain surrounded by greenery and flowers on a sunny day, capturing the relaxation and charm of Woodinville.
The sustainable native gardens at Willows Lodge feature winding paths and native plants.
Photo by Life N Light

The spa deepens the mood. Treatments lean into Northwest botanicals with skilled therapists. Even the compact hydrotherapy pool feels like a discovery, steam rising as rain patters lightly on cedar beams overhead. A massage here is not a quick indulgence but part of the rhythm of the place—a permission slip to slow down.

Dining keeps you rooted. Barking Frog, the lodge’s flagship restaurant, is refined without being fussy, the sort of room where seasonal chanterelles might meet handmade pasta one night and local salmon the next. Executive Chef Lyle Kaku brings precision, warmth, and a Pacific Rim focus, shaping menus that speak to the region’s farms and waters while standing tall against an exceptional wine program.

A modern Woodinville restaurant dining area with a round table set for guests, a central fireplace, a stunning wine display wall, and contemporary decor designed for ultimate relaxation.

A plated salmon dish with greens and roe on the left; on the right, a person garnishes an orange cocktail in a stemmed glass—perfect for relaxation after exploring Woodinville's vibrant wine scene.
Seasonal menus, award-winning wines, and craft cocktails at Barking Frog.
Photo courtesy of Willows Lodge

This year marks Willows Lodge’s 25th anniversary, celebrated with special menus and events, but the essence of the lodge isn’t tied to a calendar. It’s in the way the fireplaces are always lit, the spa feels tucked away, and complimentary bicycles wait for guests to wheel off toward the nearest tasting room. A semi-hidden opening in the surrounding walls makes accessing Old Redhook tasting rooms a breeze.

There’s a sweetness in being here before the crowds, before Woodinville grows into its next chapter. More hotel rooms will open soon—the long-anticipated Somm Hotel & Spa continues to tease—but Willows Lodge remains the definitive stay. 

Woodinville may sprawl, but the path to a perfect weekend is surprisingly straightforward: ride bikes from one winery to the next, savor world-class wines, and retreat to a lodge where relaxation is not only encouraged—it’s inevitable.

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Dispatches from Greenland, Part One: Touching Down on the Edge of the Arctic https://seattlemag.com/travel/dispatches-from-greenland-part-one/ Wed, 27 Aug 2025 23:01:34 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000102242 Icebergs drift past in improbable forms: a crouching sphinx, a Viking ship, a chess game abandoned by giants. Fog and midnight sun blur together until hours lose their meaning. From the deck of the MS Fridtjof Nansen, time hangs suspended—a mesmerizing, shifting stage set for whatever happens next. Suddenly, the voice of our expedition leader…

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Icebergs drift past in improbable forms: a crouching sphinx, a Viking ship, a chess game abandoned by giants. Fog and midnight sun blur together until hours lose their meaning. From the deck of the MS Fridtjof Nansen, time hangs suspended—a mesmerizing, shifting stage set for whatever happens next.

Suddenly, the voice of our expedition leader cracks over the loudspeaker, first in English, then in German: “Polar Bear! Polar Bear! Eisbär! Eisbär!” Cabin doors fly open, tables empty, and passengers scramble up to the Explorer’s Lounge. On the wall of giant screens stretches a picture-perfect bear, just a shade darker than the endless white behind it.

The Fridtjof Nansen carries a $581,000 gyro-stabilized camera, with a lens so powerful it can probably track a ladybug in a hurricane. As with everything else on this HX (formerly Hurtigruten Expeditions) ship, it is tuned for adventure. But as we stare at the broadcast image, one question electrifies the room: can we actually see this Arctic icon with our own eyes?

A large modern cruise ship is anchored in calm Arctic waters, surrounded by floating icebergs and rocky hills—an unforgettable scene on a Greenland cruise.

A collage showing seabirds flying near ice, a single seabird gliding over water, and a polar bear climbing onto an ice floe in a stunning Greenland landscape.
Capturing animal life in Greenland.
Left: Ilulissat_Greenland / HX Expeditions. Right: Aningaaq R. Carlsen / Visit Greenland

Greenland itself inspires the same disbelief. A labyrinth of glacier-cut fjords, muskox grazing on improbable patches of green, seabird colonies so dense they lift off from the cliffs like helicopters. Communities where language, tradition, and seasonal rhythms stay synchronized with nature. For travelers it feels less like going on vacation and more like stepping into an alternate reality.

Which is why the new direct seasonal flight from Newark to Nuuk, launched this June on United Airlines, marks a tectonic shift. For the first time since 2007, Americans can reach Greenland in just four hours—with no layovers and no connections. When the New York Times slotted Greenland onto its “52 Places to Visit in 2025,” the momentum felt inevitable: the world’s largest island was opening the door to its most populous neighbor.

Two cyclists ride along a rocky ridge in Greenland, with large icebergs and glaciers in the background under a partly cloudy sky—an awe-inspiring scene perfect for adventurous expeditions.
Ilulissat
Photo courtesy of HX Expeditions
A group of hikers walk along a snowy mountain ridge in Greenland, surrounded by rugged, snow-capped peaks and distant icebergs under a partly cloudy sky.
Hiking near Sisimiut.
Photo courtesy of HX Expeditions

Instead of kowtowing to foreigners by extracting resources buried beneath its fragile ice sheet, Greenland is channeling its resources into enticing travelers. The capital city, Nuuk, opened a revamped airport last year, with a longer runway to accommodate larger planes. Another international airport comes online next year up the coast in Ilulissat—home to seductive fjords, massive glaciers, and iridescent icebergs as far as the eye can see. The strategy is deliberate: to protect culture and nature and build an economy strong enough to resist the seductions of intruders. Talk to locals and one theme repeats—what they want most is self-determination. Tourism is the means to get there.

And the polar bear? Yes, we see it—first in binoculars, then unmistakably with our own eyes. A solitary figure on the ice, peeking at the visitors as we slowly drift away. As the ship moves, so does the bear. Slipping into the water then jumping powerfully onto another iceberg, paws on the ledge with a quizzical face. A first contact filled with mutual curiosity, and it will not be the last.

Three images of a coastal Greenland town: red wooden buildings, old boats on grass, and a panoramic view of colorful houses by the sea with icebergs in the distance and a docked ship.
Clockwise: Qeqertarsuaq | Sisimiut | Itilleq
Photos by Kim Rormark / HX Expeditions

Greenland holds more stories than one fleeting encounter. The capital offers immediate treasures for new arrivals: locally owned hotels and tours, museums, cafés, and a destination swimming pool. A thousand miles farther north in Qaanaaq, the northernmost indigenous town on Earth continues to hunt with dog sleds and harpoons, living by traditions as old as the pyramids. That is where Greenland’s past and future collide—and where the next story awaits.

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Resilience by the Sea: Return to Lahaina https://seattlemag.com/travel/resilience-by-the-sea-return-to-lahaina/ Mon, 11 Aug 2025 11:00:41 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000101527 West Maui has always held a magnetic allure — the scent of plumeria backlit by torches under a pale moon, or the way the sea breeze fills the lungs with total relaxation. But a visit now, in the wake of the 2023 wildfires, carries added meaning. Not out of obligation, but appreciation. The ocean views…

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West Maui has always held a magnetic allure — the scent of plumeria backlit by torches under a pale moon, or the way the sea breeze fills the lungs with total relaxation. But a visit now, in the wake of the 2023 wildfires, carries added meaning. Not out of obligation, but appreciation. The ocean views still take the breath away, the spirit remains strong, and the rapidly rebuilding community welcomes visitors with genuine aloha. From Seattle, it’s a direct flight and a deeply restorative change of pace. And being part of West Maui’s next chapter might be one of the most meaningful ways to experience it.

A thoughtful place to spend a therapeutic few days is the Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows. A mainstay of the Kāʻanapali Beach scene since 1962, the property recently underwent a careful refresh. The result is a blend of mid-century style and island ease — bungalows with comfy lanais, native landscaping, and just enough polish to feel like a luxury escape without tipping into pretense. The beach is mere steps away. It doesn’t take long to adjust.

Easy breezy

Once you settle into island mode, it’s easy to find your rhythm. For brunch, lunch or pupus, travelers congregate at Lahaina Noon, the resort’s signature restaurant. Named for the rare solar event when the midday sun sits directly overhead and shadows disappear, it’s a clever nod to place: ancient, bright, and distinctly Hawaiian. From there, a stroll around the grounds feels natural. Even if it’s your first visit, something about the atmosphere clicks into place almost instantly. There is a tower as well, with panoramic views, but the bungalow layout feels more peaceful, more intimate.

Don’t miss The Branches, a shaded outdoor lounge tucked under a century-old, 64-foot ficus tree strung with lanterns. In the evening, it draws a mellow crowd of visitors and locals, with live music and cocktails. The hotel is committed to building community under the ancient boughs, with live music every night from 6pm to 9pm, and a roster that includes talented locals as well as Grammy-winner Kalani Pe’a.

People sit on lounge chairs under a large tree decorated with hanging lanterns at night, as purple lighting bathes the tranquil outdoor garden—an atmosphere that echoes the resilience of Lahaina in every gentle glow.
The Branches offers cocktails and live music under a 64-foot ficus tree.
Photo courtesy of Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows

Serenity by the shore

Designed to be more than just a spa, the resort’s newest addition is a sanctuary of renewal. The Spa at Royal Lahaina is a thoughtful space rooted in the healing power of the ocean, offering guests a place to connect with the island’s spirit. The oceanfront serenity lanai, for example, is a nod to “Blue Mind Therapy,” celebrating the restorative sensory experience of being near the sea. The Pacific stretches out for miles to the horizon, an unblinking expanse of blue, holding its color while the sky above cycles through every shade of day. Treatments, from traditional lomi lomi massages to rejuvenating facials, are crafted to align with the warmth of aloha and the renewing energy of Maui.

Two massage therapists give outdoor massages to a man and a woman on separate tables, set against Lahaina’s lush, tropical backdrop with breathtaking sea views—a serene escape that celebrates resilience and renewal.

Island time

When you’re ready for some excitement, Teralani Sailing Adventures runs private snorkel charters that depart near the resort. Captain Rod Nichols takes visiting seafarers to the artificial, accidental reef off Mala Wharf for some of the best snorkeling on the island — or anywhere. The reef formed from the remnants of a sunken pier and now teems with marine life. With a long swim shore, access by boat is much preferred, and the bright, colorful sea turtles and fish always provide thrills. The crew seems genuinely enthused to lead guests on the water, and if they’re in the mood, you may end up cruising along the shores of a nearby island, hearing tales of the old Club Lanai.

Person snorkeling underwater near Lahaina, surrounded by colorful fish and coral reef, giving two thumbs up—a vibrant scene that reflects the resilience and beauty of a Return to Lahaina.
Slip into island time with an exciting snorkel off Mala Wharf.
Photo courtesy of Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows

In the evening, immerse yourself in local culture — as well as kalua pork and fire dancing — at the Myths of Maui Luau. The event, held on-site, is known as the longest-running luau on the island. The courtyard hosts a local makers market, giving the locals opportunities to show off their wares and sell directly to visitors. Even the hotel gift shop shows intentionality, with the first outpost of Mana Up on island, ensuring that gifts and goods are Maui-sourced and produced.

Regrowth and renewal

In response to the fires in Lahaina and Kula, the hotel has partnered with Treecovery Hawaii, a nonprofit focused on wildfire recovery and reforestation. The resort now hosts one of the group’s grow hubs — nurseries where native trees are nurtured until they’re ready to be replanted across the region. The partnership provides land, resources, and visibility, but more importantly, it offers something restorative — for the community and for guests.

According to Treecovery co-founder Duane Sparkman, who also serves as the resort’s chief engineer, the project speaks not only to sustainability but to belonging. Many of the resort’s employees were personally impacted by the fires. The hotel itself became a place of refuge and sanctuary for locals who needed basic shelter and food. Seeing trees grow, knowing they’ll return to the land, sends a quiet but powerful message about hope, rooted in action.

Guests can plant trees — the volunteers at Treecovery make it very accessible — or simply observe it in motion, a subtle yet moving reminder of how landscapes rejuvenate. The rest of the day might involve a cabana by the pool, a poke bowl, maybe little else but a long, serene prelude to sunset.

If you do feel like venturing out, Honu Oceanside — a beloved Lahaina institution now back in business — is a short drive away. Feast on freshly caught monchong with open-air seating and an oceanfront view that somehow still manages to surprise.

A table with various plated dishes, a glass of beer, and a glass of rosé wine, set against a rocky shoreline and ocean backdrop, captures the resilience and vibrant spirit of Lahaina.

Why now

The conversation often circles back to recovery, but not in a way that overwhelms. The resort team is candid: yes, visitors help the economy. But what matters just as much is presence, kindness, and curiosity — qualities that will endure far longer than a receipt. It’s still natural to wonder whether it’s too soon. But on the ground in West Maui, the answer is clear: visitors are encouraged, not as spectators, but as travelers who love the place and want to see it thrive again.

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The World Within Reach https://seattlemag.com/travel/the-world-within-reach/ Thu, 17 Jul 2025 11:00:05 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000099884 Summer in Seattle can be hard to give up — the long awaited celebration of bright sunshine, inviting hills and welcoming bodies of water. For those deciding to stay local this season, the avid, curious traveler can still explore the city as a portal to travel abroad. A mosaic of global cultures awaits, with food,…

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Summer in Seattle can be hard to give up — the long awaited celebration of bright sunshine, inviting hills and welcoming bodies of water. For those deciding to stay local this season, the avid, curious traveler can still explore the city as a portal to travel abroad. A mosaic of global cultures awaits, with food, art, gardens and customs that trace their roots to every corner of the planet. Here’s how to explore the world without leaving home.

For an authentic window into Kyoto, begin the journey at ShoMon Kappo Sushi for an intimate kappo dining experience. Kappo involves an open kitchen where chefs cut, cook and prepare dishes just feet away from guests seated at the counter. The chefs — or itamae — at ShoMon have impressive pedigrees, with stints at Michelin-starred restaurants and premier ryokans in Kyoto.

Chefs prepare food behind a wooden sushi bar, serving and interacting with seated diners in a modern, well-lit restaurant.
ShoMon Kappo Sushi brings a taste of Japan’s soul to Seattle’s streets.
Photo courtesy of Shomon Kappo Sushi

Leading them all is head chef Masaki, formerly of Shiro’s and a globally trained talent. The chefs are as friendly as they are knowledgeable, each stepping in to carefully illustrate the finer points of their respective expertise. The result is a transportive, multi-course journey that’s both theatrical and deeply rooted in tradition.

A visit to the 14-seat, appointment-only establishment found us next to a couple who flew up from California just for the experience. We enjoyed expert sake and wine pairings with the dishes, from ainame and white asparagus dashi soup, to wagyu beef, to kamasu sushi. The barracuda was seared aburi-style with near-molten charcoal made from wood imported from Kyoto. The whole experience was so vivid, we forgot we were in Belltown.

Head to Ballard for Scandinavian immersion and bike path-adjacent travel to Denmark, Norway, Iceland and beyond. The National Nordic Museum doesn’t just preserve heritage — it brings it to life through rotating exhibitions, architecture and immersive cultural programming. Afterward, walk to Skål Beer Hall, where hearty ales and Nordic comfort foods such as pickled herring and smørrebrød complete the story.

A short hop across Lake Washington rewards culinary travelers with La Mar Bellevue, a luminous new Peruvian restaurant from South American superstar Gastón Acurio. This dining experience is as layered as the country it celebrates. Executive chef Kaoru Chang, a third-generation Nikkei (which refers to Peruvians of Japanese heritage), draws on his experience at Nobu to deliver a menu that spotlights Peru’s coastal bounty alongside its multicultural soul. You’ll find ceviche crafted with bright aji peppers and Pacific Northwest seafood, tiraditos (Peruvian sashimi), anticuchos (grilled skewers) and a dazzling ceviche bar. Arrive early for Pisco Hour, with $12 pisco sours every weekday afternoon.

Celebrate Bastille Day in triplicate — a tricolor of rouge, bleu et blanc — at Le Caviste, the snug wine bar tucked away in the Denny Triangle, where you can sip your way through French terroir while nibbling soft cheese, pâté or rillettes. Its unpretentious sidewalk tables make a great place to linger in the summer sun, just like a neighborhood spot in Paris. By Pike Place Market, Le Pichet transports diners to a Left Bank bistro with steak frites, perfect omelettes and photogenic tartes.

Just up the street, Roquette brings a touch of Parisian elegance to Seattle nightlife. Inspired by mixologist Erik Hakki, armagnac, calvados, cognac and chartreuse are served alongside a smart list of bubbles and Normandy-style cider. Together, they offer a well-rounded experience of French dining culture — from casual apéro to rich, rustic meals.

A bartender with long hair tied back stands behind a bar, surrounded by wine bottles and glassware, preparing drinks in a dimly lit setting reminiscent of summer in Seattle.
French wine bar Le Caviste offers a broad selection of wines from France that represent their regional character.
Photo by Joanie Bonfiglio

For a different tempo and tradition, consider an afternoon devoted to tea. This ritual, so quintessentially British in form, is steeped in global history and, yes, colonialism. The tea itself hails from ancient China, and Indian and Sri Lankan tea farms, and the tradition of pausing midday to sip and snack speaks to the universal human desire for restoration. High tea is not just a welcome cultural rite. It’s an elegant intermission from modern life.

At the Fairmont Olympic Hotel, afternoon tea is a longstanding tradition, served in stately grandeur with fine china, finger sandwiches and a touch of timeless ceremony. At Smith Tower, the high tea experience unfolds with vintage flair in the Observatory. After a ride in the historic, human-operated elevator, prepare for stunning Sound views. Teacups clink under the glass windows, with bites that nod to the classic British service: warm biscuits with clotted cream, egg and salmon sandwiches, chocolate truffles. The tea service hits the highlights, from Earl Grey to Dragonwell green, and then kicks it up a notch. The bartenders will mix a bespoke cocktail based on your tea and preferences. Choose what you like, but the plum oolong paired with mezcal was a winner.

Head to Chinatown/International District for a sensory immersion in Asian foodie and consumer culture. At Uwajimaya, Japanese snacks sit next to Taiwanese bubble tea counters and Korean skincare product aisles. Seattle’s most cherished Asian supermarket stocks more food items than you could possibly imagine, so get plenty of souvenirs for home. Kinokuniya bookstore next door contains multitudes of Japanese media, along with K-Pop CDs, origami workshops and author readings. After you’ve worked up an appetite shopping, travel through time to Tai Tung, Seattle’s oldest Chinese restaurant, and tuck into the same oyster sauce and garlic shrimp that Bruce Lee enjoyed 60 years ago. Or keep trekking through the CID for a treasure trove of legit Asian experiences.

A supermarket seafood section with a prominent "Sashimi" sign, blue wave-themed wall art, and display cases—perfect inspiration for enjoying summer in Seattle, with a person shopping in the foreground.
Uwajimaya stocks a wide variety of Asian gifts and groceries, including fresh meat, seafood, and produce.
Photo by Western Neo

For a peek into bustling South Korean city culture and, conversely, its healing spa experiences, two local spots offer near-perfect moments. In Renton, Exit 5 Korean BBQ serves up charcoal-grilled meats and traditional banchan in a setting that echoes a casual Seoul night out. Further north in Lynnwood, Olympus Spa offers a Korean-style women-only day spa with soaking pools, heated rooms and body scrubs, along with a big bonus — a café serving comforting dishes such as kimchi stew and seafood pancakes. Together, they provide a taste of Seoul food and wellness without leaving the region.

For something truly different, Karoo Café brings the flavors and spirit of South Africa to Pike Place Market. With a menu inspired by family recipes and the philosophy of ubuntu — “I am because we are” — Karoo’s food and drink invite deep connection. Think chakalaka-spiced flat- breads, boerewors (sausage) sliders and peri-peri skewers, all made with house sauces and warm generosity. The cocktail menu highlights fynbos, marula and other native ingredients, while a small but mighty wine list showcases South African vineyards.

A row of capsule toy vending machines with various toys on display and a sign above stating "$2.00 = 1 Token," perfect for a fun pit stop while exploring Asian gardens or looking for what to do in Seattle in the summer.
Uwajimaya’s aisles of wonder, stocked with snacks and surprises.
Photo by Nathaniel Willson

Just outside the Nisqually entrance to Mount Rainier National Park, Paradise Village Hotel & Restaurant in Ashford offers a whimsical blend of Ukrainian cultural immersion and rustic relaxation. At the heart of this experience is the Cannibal Hot Tub, a 4,400-pound cast-iron cauldron heated over an open wood fire. Inspired by traditional chan bathing from the Carpathian Mountains, the cauldron was custom-built in Ukraine and shipped to the U.S. Guests can slowly simmer in the tub, which is lined with smooth river stones to protect against the heat, while enjoying the surrounding mountain scenery. Complementing the experience is the onsite Ukrainian restaurant, serving authentic dishes such as borscht, pierogi and galushki, providing a journey into Eastern European flavors.

For a different kind of heat, follow the scent of berbere and injera to Jebena Café, an Ethiopian restaurant in North Seattle. The combination platters offer a flavorful spread of stews, lentils and spiced vegetables, perfect for scooping communally with traditional flatbread. It’s a tactile, aromatic experience that lingers in memory. The market next door stocks handmade injera, lentils, spices and Jebena Café’s house-roasted coffee.

If you crave a tranquil escape, head outdoors to a few of the city’s most serene cultural landmarks. Kubota Garden in South Seattle combines Japanese garden design with native Northwest plants, creating a 20-acre refuge of waterfalls, maples and mossy stillness. The Seattle Japanese Garden in the Washington Park Arboretum is one of the most authentic Japanese gardens outside Japan, with footbridges, lanterns and koi ponds laid out in peaceful asymmetry. For a dose of Chinese garden philosophy, the Seattle Chinese Garden in West Seattle offers stone pathways an  traditional pavilions overlooking the mountains.

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Ooh La La! Tahiti Is Closer Than You Think https://seattlemag.com/travel/ooh-la-la-tahiti-is-closer-than-you-think/ Tue, 08 Jul 2025 11:00:06 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000093632 From the Bounty to Brando, French Polynesia stirs our most primal escapism. Lush, verdant peaks teetering above gin-clear lagoons, filled with a brilliant, sapphire menagerie — it only begins to describe the allure, as does the scent of gardenias drifting through the air like a persistent opiate. With the same ancient Polynesian culture firmly rooted…

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From the Bounty to Brando, French Polynesia stirs our most primal escapism. Lush, verdant peaks teetering above gin-clear lagoons, filled with a brilliant, sapphire menagerie — it only begins to describe the allure, as does the scent of gardenias drifting through the air like a persistent opiate. With the same ancient Polynesian culture firmly rooted in place, it’s Hawaii’s cousin —but more sultry, slightly wilder, and far more vast. French Polynesia is larger than Western Europe, and contains at least 75 inhabited islands and atolls. Notably, there is the unmistakable French flair.

Although they seem worlds away, floating dreamily in the South Pacific, the islands sit closer to the West Coast than one might think. In 2022, Air Tahiti Nui became the first airline with direct flights linking Seattle and Tahiti. Tahiti is just east of Hawaii, albeit below the equator, and thus has the same two-hour standard time zone difference, making vacation jet lag minimal.

Tahiti is the name of the most populated island and home to Papeete, where the journey begins. There’s a bustling pulse to Papeete — its central market spills over with intricate shell necklaces, famous local pearls, the aroma of spices, and decadent pastries. The locals have a warmth that feels effortless, like they’ve cracked the secret to living well and are more than willing to share. Young Tahitians meet for after-work drinks with flowers in their hair.

The travelers convene around the comfy, eco-friendly InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa, where the excitement of tropical adventure lends each morning the atmosphere of holiday gifts waiting to be unwrapped. Swimming in the pool alongside rescued injured sea turtles educates guests about marine conservation, and foreshadows the aquatic delights that await.

A modern Tahiti overwater bungalow bedroom with a large bed, wooden ceiling, and an open view to a deck with lounge chairs overlooking the ocean.

A woman in traditional attire carries a breakfast tray up wooden steps from the water in Tahiti, while a man sits in an outrigger canoe on the clear blue lagoon.
Start your day with a tropical breakfast in your overwater bungalow at the eco-friendly Inter-Continental Tahiti Resort & Spa.
Photo courtesy of IHG Hotels & Resorts

 

Moorea, just a short ferry ride from Tahiti, rises like an emerald fortress from the sea. Its craggy peaks and lush valleys make it feel untouched, ancient. A word about the famous overwater bungalows — you’re going to want to do it. There are a plethora of options. We adored Manava Beach Resort & Spa because it is small, intimate, and approachable. Mornings begin with a refreshing swim among the honu, with these gentle green sea turtles gliding through the lagoon. In the afternoons, a black-tipped reef shark shows up at the same time every day, majestic, harmless, though we keep our distance all the same. Floating among these graceful creatures, we feel completely enveloped by the ecosystem around us.

Evenings come alive with Polynesian dance, where the performers move with hypnotic fluidity and the on-site restaurant serves up locally caught seafood with a tropical twist. Poisson cru is the national dish. It means “raw fish” in French, technically correct but also sorely lacking in poetry. The freshest sashimi you can imagine, bathed in equally fresh coconut milk, gets a little closer. We ate poisson cru with fries almost every day, and the experience felt as fresh as the fish every single time.

A fire performer in red shorts spins flaming torches in a Tahiti-inspired show, creating bright circular trails of light in the dark.
Traditional Polynesian dance with men dancers.
Photo by Maridav / Adobe

To see the island up close, rent a scooter and trace the coastal road. Stop at Ta’ahiamanu Beach for a swim, then complete the circuit at Temae Beach, where palms sway lazily over a pristine coral reef. Make time for a stop at the Manutea Tahiti distillery, where rhum agricole awaits tasting. Support more local artisans at Ma Robe À Moi, where they create beautiful hand-painted pareos (beach wraps). Then join the locals across the street at Snack Mahana, a beloved roadside eatery where you’ll savor grilled tuna with coconut rice while the sun sets in a blaze of color.

It’s one thing to daydream about French Polynesia, but it’s an- other to see it unfold before you from the deck of a Windstar ship. Windstar specializes in intimate, small-ship cruising, where the crew knows your name, and there’s never a sense of being herded from one place to another. This is travel at its most thoughtful, where the itinerary feels curated rather than scripted. Days on board drift by like a perfectly tuned melody.

Bora Bora is, frankly, absurd in its beauty. The lagoon is a kaleidoscope of iridescent blues, and Mount Otemanu looms overhead like a silent guardian. If there’s a way to be anything other than blissfully content here, it hasn’t been discovered yet. Snorkeling with manta rays and reef sharks at The Aquarium is a rite of passage, and somehow even that feels serene rather than adrenaline-fueled. If you love the water as much as we do, it might be the best day of your life.

A person snorkeling underwater in Tahiti touches a large stingray while colorful fish swim nearby in clear, shallow water.

Going ashore in Bora Bora is by no means mandatory. Most of the fancier bungalow hotels lie on the coral atolls that ring the island. But there is great food to be discovered on the island. Hit Restaurant Saint James for a French splurge, and the locals-friendly roulottes (food trucks) of Matira Beach.

Taha’a is quieter, known for its vanilla plantations that scent the air with a sweetness that lingers even after you’ve left. Raiatea, the spiritual heart of Polynesia, invites exploration with its ancient temples and wild rivers. Then there’s Huahine, where traditional Polynesian life still hums along unhurried and undisturbed.

Windstar’s onboard experience is luxurious without being pretentious. The dining leans local, with fresh fish prepared to highlight its natural flavors and tropical fruit that practically glows on the plate. Excursions range from snorkeling safaris to cultural immersions where you can learn about traditional Polynesian navigation techniques, or take part in a vanilla-scented cooking class. You’re never rushed and there’s room to choose your own adventure, whether that’s diving deep into local culture or finding a secluded beach and letting the afternoon drift by.

Back on board, evenings are quiet in the best way possible. The stars are outrageous — clear, bright, and scattered across the sky like someone upended a box of diamonds. Maybe you’ll take a nightcap on deck, listening to the soft lap of waves against the hull, or join newfound friends to share stories of the day’s discoveries.

When it’s time to head back to Papeete and eventually the mainland, you’ll carry that easy rhythm with you — a sense that life can be simpler and sweeter, that beauty can be found in the gentle sway of a ship and the endless horizon ahead. Windstar was the first cruise line to explore Tahiti, and it takes that honor seriously. It does more than just take you to French Polynesia. It brings you into its heart, letting you experience a place where time slows, and wonder never quite leaves your side.

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Sole Searching In San Francisco https://seattlemag.com/travel/sole-searching-in-san-francisco/ Mon, 07 Jul 2025 11:00:09 +0000 https://seattlemag.com/?p=100000094020 The streets of San Francisco might not have Karl Malden and Michael Douglas solving crimes these days, but some visitors still consider the traffic a crime. Rideshare was invented here for a reason — but you don’t need to jump in a car to enjoy the iconic “City by the Bay” experience. If time is…

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The streets of San Francisco might not have Karl Malden and Michael Douglas solving crimes these days, but some visitors still consider the traffic a crime. Rideshare was invented here for a reason — but you don’t need to jump in a car to enjoy the iconic “City by the Bay” experience. If time is the ultimate travel luxury, then travel time on the streets of S.F. should be spent exploring, not looking for parking.

Flying in from Sea-Tac to San Francisco International Airport or Oakland International Airport is quick and easy. Then, just hop on BART to hurtle toward the city. As the train glides into Embarcadero Station, you emerge and the city’s dynamic pulse signals that the weekend has begun.

The Hyatt Regency San Francisco Embarcadero, conveniently perched above the light rail station, offers a striking welcome. Brutalist architecture has been trending lately, and the 1973 edifice is as imposing a version as you’ll find on the West Coast. Designed by John Portman, who also did the Westin Bonaventure in Los Angeles, the hotel is an architectural marvel. Step into its cavernous atrium, which holds the Guinness world record for largest hotel lobby in the world. The San Francisco Chronicle once called it “self-contained sci-fi,” and the term is apt — it feels like walking onto the set of Dune. The Modernist sculpture Eclipse, by Charles O. Perry, somehow isn’t dwarfed by the massive scale. The giant orb is so large that the hotel was actually built around it.

In the city by the bay, this futuristic hotel atrium boasts geometric sculptures and modern lighting. Reflective surfaces highlight its car-free design, while multi-tiered balconies provide a striking backdrop.
Step into the record-breaking atrium at the Hyatt Regency San Francisco Embarcadero.
Photo by Dale Cruse / Flickr

The building starred in several notable ‘70s movies, from High Anxiety to The Towering Inferno. The famous interior glass elevators are still there, seemingly an inspiration for The Matrix. So is the revolving penthouse restaurant, currently serving as the Regency Club Lounge. The plush rooms present panoramic views of the Bay, with peekaboo views of the classics: Coit Tower and Transamerica Pyramid, and the not-so-classic Salesforce Tower.

Befitting its Silicon Valley adjacent location, the gym is packed with business travelers and Peloton bikes. Or maybe it’s time for bicep curls at the bar. Enjoy bar bites and $10 glasses of wine for happy hour at the hotel’s Eclipse Kitchen & Bar, a study in polished comfort with epic interior views and elevated takes on California cuisine. Or opt for a quick caffeine jolt at The Market, the well-stocked lobby grab-and-go. Then it’s time to head out, as the city beckons.

Stroll along the Embarcadero, and soak in the salty air and steady rhythm of joggers and cyclists carving their way down the waterfront. Your destination is Perry’s on the Embarcadero, named for original owner Perry Butler. This outpost of the Union Street original is a Bay Area classic, where stiff drinks and friendly bartenders set the perfect tone. A well-made Negroni pairs nicely with the clatter of business deals wrapping up and travelers settling in, but don’t linger too long — dinner awaits.

With a prime perch on the Bay, Waterbar is a love letter to seafood, executed with precision and a touch of drama. The oysters are pristine, the Dungeness crab melts on the tongue, and the views of the twinkling Bay Bridge complete the sensory feast. Order a glass of bright Fiano from Sonoma and revel in the “Only in S.F.” dining experience.

To cap off the night, make your way to Hi Dive, an unpretentious waterfront dive with just the right amount of grit. The beer is cold the crowd local, and the view from the patio reminds you that San Francisco, despite its polish and evolution, still knows how to keep things delightfully low-key.

Two people wearing helmets, one adult and one child, ride bicycles in their sneakers on the sidewalk of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge next to passing cars.
Book an e-bike from Wheel Fun Rentals and set off for the Golden Gate Bridge.
Photo by Benson Kua

Morning calls for adventure, and the best way to see San Francisco without a car is on two wheels. Book an e-bike from Wheel Fun Rentals, then set off toward the Golden Gate Bridge, the city’s fog-kissed crown jewel. The incline up to the bridge is made effortless by your battery-powered steed, allowing you to focus on the sheer joy of the ride on the safe, separated bike path. Crossing the bridge is a pure dose of adrenaline to the heart — wind whipping past, thick, misty tendrils scaling the iconic span like a creature from the Farallon Islands to the west, then the exhilarating moment when the city recedes and Marin’s rolling hills come into view.

On the other side, Cavallo Point Lodge provides a worthy destination reward. Nestled in a historic former military base, this understated luxury resort is a haven of rustic elegance. The lodge’s restaurant offers a menu that champions Northern California’s bounty and local wines poured with casual confidence. Sit outside along the narrow patio to continue admiring the bridge you just scaled. If time allows, inquire about the guided Fort Baker history tour, guided by longtime bellman Britt. It’s a fascinating glimpse into the area’s military past, complete with tales of intrigue and hidden bunkers. Historic ghosts might even make an appearance.

The iconic Golden Gate Bridge elegantly spans the bay, with green hills and charming red-roofed buildings in the foreground, offering a picturesque view of this car-free cityscape.
Cavallo Point Lodge offers quiet luxury and Golden Gate views.
Photo courtesy of Cavallo Point Lodge

If more fresh air is on the agenda, the ride into Sausalito is safe, easy, and thrilling. Hand off your bikes to the city bike valet, then browse the local boutiques with tourists weekending from the city. Gaze across the bay at Angel and Alcatraz islands, then pop into No Name Bar for a round with the local salty dogs.

The car-free outdoor dining area features red chairs and wooden tables amidst lush greenery, set against a building with arched windows and reflective glass, offering a serene escape in the heart of the city.
At Gott’s Roadside, the cheeseburger comes stacked with plenty of flavor.
Photo courtesy of Gott's Roadside

The return ride into the city feels almost cinematic. The sun, now hovering above the horizon, illuminates the skyline as you retrace your route, coasting effortlessly downhill. Back at the Embarcadero, the day’s perfect finale is a well-earned meal at one of the Ferry Building’s esteemed restaurants. Whether you opt for Hog Island Oyster Co.’s fresh seafood, mission-style burritos  from Señor Sisig, or an indulgent Niman Ranch and Cowgirl Creamery cheeseburger from James Beard American Classic winner Gott’s Roadside, the meal is a celebration of the region’s culinary prowess.

As the evening light dances on the Bay and another round arrives, it’s clear: San Francisco doesn’t just reward the car-free traveler — it practically insists on it.

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